Punta Mita

The Four Seasons Punta Mita Golf Club (about an hour’s drive north of Vallarta) now has two Jack Nicklaus Signature courses. In June 2008, Pacifico was named the number one golf course in the world by the readers of Condé Nast Traveler. Pacifico boasts19 fairways and the world’s only natural island green.

To play this signature Tail of the Whale third hole you must carry your drive about 180 yards across the Pacific Ocean. In low tide, if you haven’t made an offering to Neptune, walk over a rocky ocean-floor pathway to putt.

Less adventuresome swingers can opt to play the alternate landlocked 3A. The Jack Nicklaus Signature design takes full advantage of vistas of the surrounding Sierra Madre Mountains, white coral sand beaches and a tropical landscape of palms and bougainvillea.

Jack’s new Bahia Course may be less dramatic but the severely contoured greens will challenge your putting acumen. The grand finale fairways 17 and 18 take golfers within steps of Punta Mita’s famed El Faro surfing beach.

These tracts are in such impeccable condition, you’d swear they trim the fairways with manicure scissors and sift the sand. And just when you’re feeling a bit parched, cart gals arrive with lemon-scented iced towels and Evian spritzes. I got the impression they’d tie my shoes and hit the ball if I asked. If only they could help me to hit that island green.

www.fourseasons.com/puntamita/golf

El Tigre

Further south, in Nuevo Vallarta, try to tame El Tigre. No, it’s not named after Tiger Woods, but for the larger than life rescued Bengal tigers that live in cages on the 17th. You might also spot a cub tethered to a bougainvillea bush near the driving range.

Between Robert von Hagge’s brutal bunkering, gorgeous sculpted fairways, and island green and wild cats, El Tigre is the kind of course you’d want to play again and again.

www.eltigregolf.com

Los Flamingos

Located at the south end of Bucerias this is the best bargain in the area. Designed by Percy Clifford, Flamingos’ unique fairways have a bit of everything—from plenty of forced carries and elevation changes to resident crocodiles.

Players can save on greens fees by purchasing a package of five or more. The club also provides free morning coffee and afternoon shuttles to your PV hotel.

www.flamingosgolf.com.mx

Vista Vallarta

At Vista Vallarta, just outside of town, take your pick between the two championship tracts designed by Tom Weiskopf and Jack Nicklaus—both roller coasters that take full advantage of their setting in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains. Recently, both were ranked in the top ten for resort courses in Mexico by the Best Golf Guide to the Mexican Rivera Magazine.

www.vistavallartagolf.com

Marina

In the hotel zone, The Marina Golf Course, designed by Joe Finger and the oldest in Vallarta, provides a good watery challenge, especially on the back nine, also home to a few seemingly docile crocs. Keep your distance.

www.marinavallartagolf.com

Where to Stay

PV’s only all-inclusive boutique hotel, Casa Velas is just the place for those of us who don’t want to be Mr. or Ms. Anonymous in room 2004. The staff’s mission is to spoil you and in no time you’ll be amigos with Benny the bartender, Daniel the waiter and Jorge and bellman. In addition to deluxe digs, gourmet cuisine in the resort’s Emiliano restaurant or its exclusive Beach Club and an award-winning spa, Casa Velas offers packages including unlimited golf at the Marina and Vista courses.

www.hotelcasavelas.com

Where to Brag about your Birdies

By last count Vallarta boasted about 1,000 eateries. These are some of my favourites.

La Leche

The minimal white decor, propped with hundreds of milk cans, creates a dramatic backdrop for chef/owner Alfonso Cadena’s sensational dishes. His menu changes daily based on seasonal local produce and his whims.

www.lalecherestaurant.com

The Red Cabbage Café

This off-the-beaten path bohemian hideaway on the Rio Cuale specializes in classic Mexican fare such as peanut soup and chiles en nogada that were served at the wedding feast of flamboyant Mexican artists Frida Khalo and Diego Rivera.

www.redcabbagepv.com

Chez Elena

Established in 1954, this vintage Vallarta landmark sits high in the hills with arguably the best view of the Bay of Banderas. Arrive before sunset for cocktails on the rooftop El Nido bar, and then dine downstairs in the candlelit garden restaurant where the likes of Richard Burton, Liz Taylor and John Huston shared many a guacamole and Mexican platter.

www.cuatrovientos.com

Joe Jack’s Fish Shack

After browsing through the shops and galleries on Basilio Badillo, head into Joe Jack’s Fish Shack.

Shrimp and avocado tostados, grilled red snapper smothered in roasted garlic buds and chilies slide down extremely well with their Ginger mojitos.

www.joejacks-fishshack.com

Free Fiesta

Sunday at sundown is fiesta time on the Malecon, PV’s seaside promenade. Buy a grilled corn on the cob slathered with chili/lime butter, salsa with the locals in the main zocalo, called Plaza de Armas, and enjoy folkloric spectacles in the open-air amphitheatre with the waves as background music.

www.visitpuertovallarta.com

Buen Provecho!